Fedora - Back in Style

Back in Style

Fedora

Everything that was old is new again.

   Getting together with old friends last month, we were looking for somewhere hip and down home, at the same time. Steve and Sue are serious foodies and seasoned Bar Eaters, themselves, so we asked them to make the call. Their pick, Fedora; they were already regulars and we'd been talking about going since Patti popped into Jeffery's Grocery for lunch in March.

Cocktail Hour

Partner/manager Brian, the man behind the cocktails at Fedora.

   When we arrived Steve was already well into a Black Squirrel Old Fashion. Patti joined Sue in Songbirds and I went for a 445 North Locust, all very tasty. (Ya, I sampled everybody's.) Settling in, we tortured good natured Brian with a round of guess that Madison restaurant. A Wisconsinite, like many working in what if Gabe Stulman has his way may come to be called "Little Wisco." Reminds me of the Irish Bars I've frequented over the years. When you get to talking to the staff you discover they're all from a particular county in Ireland. Up the street, another bar, a different county.

Architect & Bartender Robert

   By now you have probably heard a bit about this place and the interesting story behind it. So I won't burden you with all the details, just bang the links if you want to know more. Fedora is not a reference to the hat but the owner, Fedora Dorato. The story of her passing the baton is a classic, with a happy ending. It wasn't easy for those who remember the way it was, but it seems Fedora made a wise choice. The Feast shot a series of videos during renovations, that are a nice introduction to Gabe and his crew if you haven't met them.

 

I'm guessing these are Little Wisco Specials.

Now, don't they look refreshing!

We were curious, but this evening it was wine.

With food like this, you can't go wrong with a good gigondas.

Energy and Informality

   It was a very busy Saturday night, everything was a blur including Gabe, when he swung by to say hello. Relaxed and sincere, he seems a genuinely nice guy, as does everyone who works there. Personal attention, hard work and smarts appear to be the Wisco formula for success. 

Gabriel Stulman

Then Came Dinner

Sharing the Carnage

   It was one big order for all of us. Things we had to try, specialties of the house, specials of the evening a truly communal meal. Starting with, chioggia beet salad with ricotta and candied pecans, a favorite of Steve's, (a man who didn't really like beets until he tasted this dish) and scapes in early spring season, very tasty, and crispy pigs head, a favorite of Sue's, also good if a bit on the rich side. (Patti didn't go for the concept). For the main course, (and I do mean main), roasted pork ribs, not the ones usually on the menu, which Steve says are phenomenal, (these were hardy if undistinguished), rock shrimp salad, and brussel sprouts with black bean sauce and bacon, house standards. Actually, hardy and inventive describes all of the fair. It will be interesting to see what Chef Mehdi Brunet-Benkritly, (formerly Chef de Cuisine at Martin Picard's - Au Pied de Cochon in Montreal), does for a summer menu. Mehdi and Gabe gave Zagat's an interview that sets out Fedora's basic approach to cuisine.

Dessert

 

Chocolate cake like mom used to make. With a milk chaser.

Ok we're full.

Parting Shot

Photo by Frank

    Where does the time go? Seems as though we just sat down. There is nothing better than sharing a good meal with good friends, at the corner of the bar. We look forward to more Bar Eater adventures with Steve and Sue.

Looking Back

   For many Fedora (the bar) was an old friend and it is hard when old friends move on. Those afflicted with nostalgia might do better to think of this smart, new incarnation as, "daughter of Fedora" and look upon her with the delight held for the progeny of a legend.

Fedora

Everything that was old is new again.

Back Forty - Came for Burgers - Stayed for Cocktails

Came for Burgers

Stayed for Cocktails

Back Forty

    In a wild swing from last weekend, with Patti out of town and good friend Pete flying right seat, Bar Eaters took off, in search of the best burger in town, (or at least an outstanding effort). In recent years there's been a revival of sorts for the humble hamburger. Some are nostalgic recreations, some try too hard, some are overhyped disappointments, (BLT Burger comes to mind). Word was good on Back Forty's offering and considering chef / owner, Peter Hoffman's philosophy of food, one would expect an exceptional result. An early proponent of local cuisine, he opened the Savoy about twenty years ago. There is an in depth ICE interview with him, on their site.

The burger we came for.

   We were not disappointed! A solid entry in the annals of burger history. Solid and simple, from the quality of the meat, to the preparation, (rare) they were first rate. The farmhouse cheddar takes it up a notch without going overboard. Pete went for the trifecta and added bacon. We haven't done an exhaustive study so it wouldn't be honest to use the word "best." But they sure are in the running. If you are doing your own New York burger survey a good benchmark would be Back Forty's. 

The bar.   

Relaxed and friendly, the place has a comfortable feel, like a well worn pair of jeans.

The cocktails we stayed for.

Nathaniel the right man for the job.

   Nathaniel would definitely get the Bar Eaters seal of approval, if we had one. (Maybe we should...) He's an excellent mixologist, a scholar (we assume) and a gentleman. His laid back style fits right in with the vibe of the place. We felt right at home.

Pete and I during cocktail trials. Photo by Nathaniel

   In keeping with the survey theme of the evening we sampled a variety of Back Forty's special offerings. Patti makes fun of me for trying the "froofy" signature drinks bars put out. (Believe me dear, these were not "froofy.")  All are made in an authentic way with fresh ingredients. Round one, we both had  The Back Forty, very tasty, sweet but not over the top. Round two, I tried the Loisaida Sling, (Cachaca Ginger, Beer & Chipotle) and Pete went for the Parisian Pal (Rye, Dubonnet, Compari & Bitters), both thumbs up. I wrapped it up with a couple of sidecars. I believe Pete was on to the straight George Dickel by then, (in a properly chilled glass, no ice, of course).

Ya, we'll be back.

Pure Food & Wine - The Synonymy of Fresh

The Synonymy of Fresh

crisp, raw, natural, unprocessed, new, modern, original, novel, innovative, unusual, 

unconventional, offbeat, unorthodox, radical, revolutionary...

Pure Food & Wine

Nasturtium...

   Having wrapped up our juice cleanse, Patti and I were looking to ease back in to solid food with something healthy. While there is a lot of innovation going on in vegetarian cuisine these days, it is still a relatively small field. So where can discriminating bar eaters go to find food that is fresh and exciting? At the top of the natural food pyramid here in New York is Pure Food & Wine. Originally the (2004) creation of notorious chef Matthew Kenny and then girlfriend, chef Sarma Melngailis (sordid details); it still purveys some of the most inspired food to be found on any menu, in the city. Alone, Samara seems to have accomplished what Matthew never could, to keep a good thing going. 

First Plate

   We began with spinach and nasturtiums stuffed with polenta and garnished with droplets of wasabi, (a special not on the menu). Wow, what a re-entry! Not to forget the, olives cured in fennel and orange. We followed up with the zucchini and heirloom tomato lasagna and the sweet corn and cashew tamales. The lasagna, a signature dish was delicious, but the tamales were our favorites. 

 The Bar

   So that's how the fast was broken. But what did we drink? We were sorely tempted to toast our successful cleanse with a Master Cleanse Tini, but went with the, Saint Clair sauvignon blanc from New Zealand, (organic of course), because first night back, it was all about light and crisp.  

The sangria looked great, something to remember for the summer.

Victor 

           (a bit blurry)

   A word about Victor, our bartender for the evening. A genuine guy and pleasure to meet, he knows what he is doing and he keeps it real. So often its the added dimension of a good bartender, natural, unaffected, in tune to their surroundings that ties the whole experience together. We look forward to running into Victor again.

The knock on this place is that the portions are small and the prices high. It is undeniably, on the expensive side but we never balk when quality is exceptional. In our view, it is the mediocre that's a waste of money, at any price point. As for the portions they seemed ample to us. We even had left overs.

Chef / Owner Sarma Melngailis blogs about everything at One Lucky Duck.

The John Dory Oyster Bar - Exactly

Exactly

The John Dory Oyster Bar

No Reservations

   In  many ways The John Dory Oyster Bar is exactly what Bar Eaters are looking for. Ken Friedman and April Bloomfield are riding the crest of a trend in dining. Sam Sifton in the New York Times knows what he is talking about when it comes to food, but when he gets to grousing about the wait for a table... Well I think he needs to loosen up and join the bar eaters movement. While we waited for a spot at the bar, we enjoyed a crisp Spanish Albarino, and got on the spot recommendations from a very nice couple who had just finished their meal. It was Friday night about eight when we arrived, our dear friend and Bar Eater Blog wine consultant, Jackie joining us. The wait wasn't bad. Maybe we were lucky. Time is relative, and thanks to Tre Bicchieri we were in a festive mood. 

Bartenders, Theo & Tom

   Theo and Tom have got it down. They were busy but never seemed rushed. Concocting Sasha Petraske's authentic cocktails requires real craftsmanship. But, there is more to bar-tending than the mixing of drinks. People bring a range of expectations to a bar, looking for everything from servitude to friendship. Bartenders walk the line, the sweet spot is in the middle; that's where you will find the best.

The Oyster Bar

   Of course we had oysters. You don't go to an oyster bar and skip the oysters, unless you are forced to against your will. I understand even some vegetarians will eat oysters. We ordered half from the east and half from the west. Can't say which were better, although I must confess the Peconic Bay oysters, which we tried because they are local, were not our favorites. The food reviewers have spoken and I'm not a food reviewer, so I'll just say April Bloomfield's offerings live up to the hype. We had the octopus, the squid and the fluke with a quinoa crust, all were excellent, (check the menu for details). The Parker House rolls deserve special mention. How can something so basic be so fabulous? 

  Whoa baby, that's refreshing! Tom whipped us up a mid meal cocktail using some of his own patented elixer. (If he hasn't patented it yet, he'd better.) We'll be looking for the stuff to show up out east this summer.

Here it is, TomR's Artisanal Elixers.

   Looking back at The John Dory Oyster Bar, as we walked out into a prematurely warm February night. I could not help but wonder why it took us so long to get here. Well, three months is probably just the right amount of time for a restaurant to hit its stride. Friday night she was a thoroughbred. 

Le Jolifou - Sincerity

  Sincerity

Le Jolifou

   Bear with me, as I sketch out the Bar Eater philosophy. I know we're bouncing around a bit but Montreal isn't far to go to have a unique experience. While many of Canada's cities aren't so different from their US counterparts; Montreal is distinct, not only on the continent, but in the world. In less than an hour, (six by car), from New York, you can be there. (Don't forget your passport).

        

Joli fou translates to "pretty lunatic."   

   I was born in Montreal and although my family left Canada when I was young, the city still holds a place in my heart. Patti and I had come for the weekend, to celebrate my birthday. Saturday night we were looking for a unique and lively place for the birthday feast. The reviews of Le Jolifou were excellent and the name implied a certain levity. French - Mexican fusion definitely sounded different. Whoever was putting those cuisines together had a sense of whimsey. The who turned out to be chef David Ferguson and with his wife, sommelier, Helene Brault.   

                      

   There is a proper bar at Le Jolifou, however out of curiosity, we sat at the one over looking the kitchen. I remember watching David and his crew in full culinary fury, cranking out one enticing dish after another. We couldn't help but ogle the oysters as they were lined up. I don't know how he noticed, With so much going on, but suddenly there they were, Oysters with green apple mignonette, as tasty as we had imagined! I understand they have recently changed the menu so I can't speak to it directly. I don't know what to make of the new "roadhouse concept," but I'm sure David's experimentally playful spirit is behind it. We'll have to check in when next we are in town.

Cooking for people

    During the hight of the evening, chefs are too busy for any real interaction. But when the dinner rush is over, sometimes there is an opportunity to meet them. Fortune was with us this night. We got to talking with David and persuaded Helene to stay for a glass of wine before she headed upstairs to the kids. He is an anglophone from Ontario and she a francophone from Quebec. They live a life they have created for themselves. And they share their creation, Le Jolifou with anyone lucky enough to drop in. Pianist and blogger Minna Re Shin tells the whole story in her post from last summer. 

 Helene & David

   There is no pretense, nor posturing at Le Jolifou. These are real people and this is real food. Art is genuine when it is practiced with sincerely. What a lovely place to spend your birthday. And what lovely people to share it with. Canadians are known to be among the nicest people on earth. 

Sincerity is a big part of that.

La Huella - The Ideal

The Ideal

La Huella

   Last winter Patti and I escaped, briefly to José Ignacio, Uruguay. If fortune ever finds you there, you will see what a simply beautiful place it is.

A convient map of José Ignacio

"La Huella" means "The Trace"

   I know this is a little far afield for many, but I begin here to establish what we see as perfection. The Zen of perfection to be precise. Not a striven for perfection, but a natural, unforced perfection. While there are many excellent places to eat and drink in José Ignacio, we kept going back to La Huella.

   The crowd is from literally everywhere, with substantial Argentinean and Brazilian strains. What they say about these South Americans is true. They are warm, friendly and sensual, hedonistic in the best sense of the word. Their love of life, family and friends is palpable. Likewise, La Huella's staff achieves that often elusive balance of casual yet attentive service. The physical setting is essentially an elegant surf shack, airy and open letting in the surrounding beauty along with an ocean breeze. 

   La Huella cuisine is more about execution than invention. Everything we ate was simply perfect. Coco Weissmann in responsible for the sushi, some of the freshest we have ever tasted, likewise the cocktails, especially the Mojitos. Nothing about La Huella tries too hard and yet everything is just right.

Mmmm, take me back to José Ignacio...