Fedora - Back in Style

Back in Style

Fedora

Everything that was old is new again.

   Getting together with old friends last month, we were looking for somewhere hip and down home, at the same time. Steve and Sue are serious foodies and seasoned Bar Eaters, themselves, so we asked them to make the call. Their pick, Fedora; they were already regulars and we'd been talking about going since Patti popped into Jeffery's Grocery for lunch in March.

Cocktail Hour

Partner/manager Brian, the man behind the cocktails at Fedora.

   When we arrived Steve was already well into a Black Squirrel Old Fashion. Patti joined Sue in Songbirds and I went for a 445 North Locust, all very tasty. (Ya, I sampled everybody's.) Settling in, we tortured good natured Brian with a round of guess that Madison restaurant. A Wisconsinite, like many working in what if Gabe Stulman has his way may come to be called "Little Wisco." Reminds me of the Irish Bars I've frequented over the years. When you get to talking to the staff you discover they're all from a particular county in Ireland. Up the street, another bar, a different county.

Architect & Bartender Robert

   By now you have probably heard a bit about this place and the interesting story behind it. So I won't burden you with all the details, just bang the links if you want to know more. Fedora is not a reference to the hat but the owner, Fedora Dorato. The story of her passing the baton is a classic, with a happy ending. It wasn't easy for those who remember the way it was, but it seems Fedora made a wise choice. The Feast shot a series of videos during renovations, that are a nice introduction to Gabe and his crew if you haven't met them.

 

I'm guessing these are Little Wisco Specials.

Now, don't they look refreshing!

We were curious, but this evening it was wine.

With food like this, you can't go wrong with a good gigondas.

Energy and Informality

   It was a very busy Saturday night, everything was a blur including Gabe, when he swung by to say hello. Relaxed and sincere, he seems a genuinely nice guy, as does everyone who works there. Personal attention, hard work and smarts appear to be the Wisco formula for success. 

Gabriel Stulman

Then Came Dinner

Sharing the Carnage

   It was one big order for all of us. Things we had to try, specialties of the house, specials of the evening a truly communal meal. Starting with, chioggia beet salad with ricotta and candied pecans, a favorite of Steve's, (a man who didn't really like beets until he tasted this dish) and scapes in early spring season, very tasty, and crispy pigs head, a favorite of Sue's, also good if a bit on the rich side. (Patti didn't go for the concept). For the main course, (and I do mean main), roasted pork ribs, not the ones usually on the menu, which Steve says are phenomenal, (these were hardy if undistinguished), rock shrimp salad, and brussel sprouts with black bean sauce and bacon, house standards. Actually, hardy and inventive describes all of the fair. It will be interesting to see what Chef Mehdi Brunet-Benkritly, (formerly Chef de Cuisine at Martin Picard's - Au Pied de Cochon in Montreal), does for a summer menu. Mehdi and Gabe gave Zagat's an interview that sets out Fedora's basic approach to cuisine.

Dessert

 

Chocolate cake like mom used to make. With a milk chaser.

Ok we're full.

Parting Shot

Photo by Frank

    Where does the time go? Seems as though we just sat down. There is nothing better than sharing a good meal with good friends, at the corner of the bar. We look forward to more Bar Eater adventures with Steve and Sue.

Looking Back

   For many Fedora (the bar) was an old friend and it is hard when old friends move on. Those afflicted with nostalgia might do better to think of this smart, new incarnation as, "daughter of Fedora" and look upon her with the delight held for the progeny of a legend.

Fedora

Everything that was old is new again.

Back Forty - Came for Burgers - Stayed for Cocktails

Came for Burgers

Stayed for Cocktails

Back Forty

    In a wild swing from last weekend, with Patti out of town and good friend Pete flying right seat, Bar Eaters took off, in search of the best burger in town, (or at least an outstanding effort). In recent years there's been a revival of sorts for the humble hamburger. Some are nostalgic recreations, some try too hard, some are overhyped disappointments, (BLT Burger comes to mind). Word was good on Back Forty's offering and considering chef / owner, Peter Hoffman's philosophy of food, one would expect an exceptional result. An early proponent of local cuisine, he opened the Savoy about twenty years ago. There is an in depth ICE interview with him, on their site.

The burger we came for.

   We were not disappointed! A solid entry in the annals of burger history. Solid and simple, from the quality of the meat, to the preparation, (rare) they were first rate. The farmhouse cheddar takes it up a notch without going overboard. Pete went for the trifecta and added bacon. We haven't done an exhaustive study so it wouldn't be honest to use the word "best." But they sure are in the running. If you are doing your own New York burger survey a good benchmark would be Back Forty's. 

The bar.   

Relaxed and friendly, the place has a comfortable feel, like a well worn pair of jeans.

The cocktails we stayed for.

Nathaniel the right man for the job.

   Nathaniel would definitely get the Bar Eaters seal of approval, if we had one. (Maybe we should...) He's an excellent mixologist, a scholar (we assume) and a gentleman. His laid back style fits right in with the vibe of the place. We felt right at home.

Pete and I during cocktail trials. Photo by Nathaniel

   In keeping with the survey theme of the evening we sampled a variety of Back Forty's special offerings. Patti makes fun of me for trying the "froofy" signature drinks bars put out. (Believe me dear, these were not "froofy.")  All are made in an authentic way with fresh ingredients. Round one, we both had  The Back Forty, very tasty, sweet but not over the top. Round two, I tried the Loisaida Sling, (Cachaca Ginger, Beer & Chipotle) and Pete went for the Parisian Pal (Rye, Dubonnet, Compari & Bitters), both thumbs up. I wrapped it up with a couple of sidecars. I believe Pete was on to the straight George Dickel by then, (in a properly chilled glass, no ice, of course).

Ya, we'll be back.

Café Luxembourg - Perennial Favorite

Perennial Favorite

Café Luxembourg

     I've been going to Cafe Luxembourg since Keith McNally opened it... a long time ago. The business, along with the Odeon now belongs to his ex-wife Lynn Wagenknecht. It's still a great place for the basics, like French onion soup, (a Patti favorite when its done right). The steak frites, their "Luxemburger," and their tuna burger are all tasty. Not to forget minted peas, a personal favorite. We don't go there expecting fine art just a good meal in comfortable surroundings.  

   None of Keith McNally's establishments are original creations. It is his interpretation of European classics that makes them special. Luxembourg while calling itself a bistro is actually a riff on a brasserie. The New Oxford Dictionary defines a brasserie as “a type of restaurant with a relaxed, upscale setting, which serves single dishes and other meals. A brasserie can be expected to have professional service, printed menus, and, traditionally, white linen (unlike a bistro which may have none of these). Typically, a brasserie is open every day of the week and serves the same menu all day.” 

    While Cafe Luxembourg is based on a European classic it is, never the less, very "New York" in its way. Nothing finishes off a long stroll in Central Park like a warm meal and warm company at the bar.

Sometimes the well worn path is the best way home.